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Our luggage arrived about 9:30 last night so we are relieved and ready to start unpacking. It was a wonderful trip and one we will never forget.
Sunday, September 12, 2010
Friday, September 10, 2010
Home Sweet home
We made it home this evening and oh how good it feels to be here. We loved every minute of the Africa adventure but we are tired and it will feel good to sleep in our own bed. To top the trip off. our luggage is lost again! somehow it does not seem as bad since we are home!
Wednesday, September 8, 2010
Good Night's Sleep!
We both enjoyed a great night's sleep and feel ready to face the day and the long flights home tonight. We are going to tour Nairobi today and we have a dayroom to freshen up before the flights. I will need to sit down with my thousands of photos so sort through them and pick more to put on here. We saw so many animals and I loved being able to stop and just watch them. Omari was wonderful at spotting them and I really enjoyed learning more about the habits and such of the animals. We just saw so much and seeing how huge the Maasai range, it is so important to understand their culture. We handed out some pens to small children as we wove our way across some of the paths and it was so special to interact with them and share with them.
We have wonderful stories to share and we look forward to getting home!
We have wonderful stories to share and we look forward to getting home!
Back to Nairobi
Today we made our way back to Nairobi. We were waked up at the tented camp at 5AM and we left at 6 for our small plane flight back to Arusha. Our pilot was a lovely lady named Liz who spent the night at our camp and ate dinner with us which was nice. The plane was a 15 seater and Liz was a great pilot. She took us over an active volcano so we could look inside the crater. unfortunately, Mt Killimanjaro was still behind the clouds. I am thankful for that one tiny peek we got last week. The ride from Arusha to Nairobi is long and at times rough because they are building the road and there is dust and construction everywhere. But it was nowhere near as bad as some of the discussion boards made it out to be. We stopped for a picnic lunch and we spent some time when we arrived in Arusha at the cultural center which was nice. Last night, we had a lovely rain that lasted several hours and the sound on the tents was wonderful to sleep by. It stopped after a few hours and was pretty today but it is wonderful for this part of the Serengeti. The wildebeests and zebra are returning to Tanzania from the Maasai Mara very early and and it is an awesome sight. Today we saw some animals along as we drove but most of us were tired enough and satisfied with what we had seen, that we were ready to put our cameras away. The border crossing back and forth from Kenya to Tanzania and all is interesting. We filled out the papers and waited in line and got our stamps and then went to the next station to enter the next country.
We are back at the Intercontinental here in Nairobi. We went down and had a very delicious marguerita pizza that we split in one of the hotel restaurants. It was so good and took little effort to get it just like we wanted.
Tomorrow we are shopping and touring a bit and then will come back to the hotel and get ready for our flights-go to a farewell dinner on our way to the airport. We could not have asked for better weather, people to travel with and an excellent guide who spotted more wildlife than I ever expecteded to see. I highly recommend this OAT trip for anyone who loves seeing wildlife.
We are back at the Intercontinental here in Nairobi. We went down and had a very delicious marguerita pizza that we split in one of the hotel restaurants. It was so good and took little effort to get it just like we wanted.
Tomorrow we are shopping and touring a bit and then will come back to the hotel and get ready for our flights-go to a farewell dinner on our way to the airport. We could not have asked for better weather, people to travel with and an excellent guide who spotted more wildlife than I ever expecteded to see. I highly recommend this OAT trip for anyone who loves seeing wildlife.
Last Day in the northern Serengeti
This tented camp is so nice. It is rustic, yes, but the difference in this one and the last one is huge. The staff is great and attentive and I feel safe here inside the tent whereas, I didn’t like having to unzip the tent to go out to the toilet in the last one even though it was enclosed and connected to the tent. This one is all one and it feels cleaner somehow. The scenery is gorgeous-we look out the tent at the hillside with wildlife in the far distance. Around the camp you can see the zebra and lions were in camp last night but I was pretty sound asleep about the time everyone that heard them said they were close. We slept with our fleece jackets on as the temperatures drop fast andgo from hot in the afternoon to really cool at night but there is plenty of cover and we sleep just fine. Thank goodness for the staff fixing up a battery for Jim.
Today we left pretty early to go over to the Mara river to see if we could catch the wildebeest migrating across the river. We saw some just after they had finished but we did not see them crossing the Mara-but we did see them going across a smaller river and some of the dry gulleys of the river. There were thousands of them. It is early but the rains have started-which we did not expect. It is great to get to see this. They come in droves and the zebra come with them, though right now it is mostly wildebeest. The grass is green around here unlike the southern plains where it is still brown. There are huge crocs in the Mara and they eat a lot of the wildebeest and a lot drown, unable to get up on the other side. So I was rather glad we saw what we did-the PG version of the migration where no one was killed! No picture can do it justice. They follow each other and go for miles.
The hippos in the Mara are huge and there are so many of them. We enjoyed watching them sun themselves in the afternoon sun. We had a picnic lunch out under a tree and just had a very pleasant day. We are all tired and we have to get up early in the morning to catch a 7AM flight to Arusha and then we have a long long drive back to Nairobi. We have enjoyed this camp but it will feel good to be in a regular hotel with a regular bed and shower that we can stay in as long as we want!
After our drives we come back to our tents and take our showers and get clean and it feels so good. Then we go down and have a campfire and talk and Omari gives us instructions for the next day and gives us information about the region and all. Then we eat supper in the dining tent by candlelight and are walked back to our tents. By 9PM we are in bed. There is noit much light for anything but we are tired and ready for sleep anyway.
It has been an absolutely incredible experience.
This tented camp is so nice. It is rustic, yes, but the difference in this one and the last one is huge. The staff is great and attentive and I feel safe here inside the tent whereas, I didn’t like having to unzip the tent to go out to the toilet in the last one even though it was enclosed and connected to the tent. This one is all one and it feels cleaner somehow. The scenery is gorgeous-we look out the tent at the hillside with wildlife in the far distance. Around the camp you can see the zebra and lions were in camp last night but I was pretty sound asleep about the time everyone that heard them said they were close. We slept with our fleece jackets on as the temperatures drop fast andgo from hot in the afternoon to really cool at night but there is plenty of cover and we sleep just fine. Thank goodness for the staff fixing up a battery for Jim.
Today we left pretty early to go over to the Mara river to see if we could catch the wildebeest migrating across the river. We saw some just after they had finished but we did not see them crossing the Mara-but we did see them going across a smaller river and some of the dry gulleys of the river. There were thousands of them. It is early but the rains have started-which we did not expect. It is great to get to see this. They come in droves and the zebra come with them, though right now it is mostly wildebeest. The grass is green around here unlike the southern plains where it is still brown. There are huge crocs in the Mara and they eat a lot of the wildebeest and a lot drown, unable to get up on the other side. So I was rather glad we saw what we did-the PG version of the migration where no one was killed! No picture can do it justice. They follow each other and go for miles.
The hippos in the Mara are huge and there are so many of them. We enjoyed watching them sun themselves in the afternoon sun. We had a picnic lunch out under a tree and just had a very pleasant day. We are all tired and we have to get up early in the morning to catch a 7AM flight to Arusha and then we have a long long drive back to Nairobi. We have enjoyed this camp but it will feel good to be in a regular hotel with a regular bed and shower that we can stay in as long as we want!
After our drives we come back to our tents and take our showers and get clean and it feels so good. Then we go down and have a campfire and talk and Omari gives us instructions for the next day and gives us information about the region and all. Then we eat supper in the dining tent by candlelight and are walked back to our tents. By 9PM we are in bed. There is noit much light for anything but we are tired and ready for sleep anyway.
It has been an absolutely incredible experience.
Serengeti Day 3
On to another mobile tented camp in the northern Serengeti. We left camp and did a game drive for a couple of hours, seeing the family of lions that we saw yesterday. There are about 8 -10 of them and today they were at the watering hole and the babies were all lapping it up from the bridge that had a stream flowing over it. They were so cute! By the time we left, the best viewing was over as they were snoozing under a nearby tree. But there were about 14 vehicles who had gathered to watch them. We moved on as Omari had heard there was a leopard nearby! My oh my, I will never ever spot a leopard by myself. It takes me so long to even find it after they spot one. This one was low on a tree and he blended so well that I don’t see how anyone could have spotted it. He must have lifted his head for someone to spot it. His head was hidden from us but his body was beautiful spread out on the tree limb. I can’t believe we did not have one leopard sighting before and this trip we have seen 4!!! I love it. We later spotted a mother and baby giraffe. The baby was only a few hours old and still had her umbilical cord dangling on her! She was still wobbly and following along behind her mother. It was so sweet! We saw more hyenas and jackals today-it was the silver backed jackal this time. We also spotted the small antelope that is found up here that we had not seen before okapi. We saw lots of Topi as well. We left the Serengeti national park and went through an area that is inhabited by a tribe that kill game to eat. They were given land just outside the Serengeti and they are trying to move them farther away and get them to stop the slaughtering which they are making progress with. We stopped in the town of Mowomo? To get a Coke and for Carolyn to use the internet. She was not successful so we moved on but it was fun to sit and watch the the people go about their business. We took a small dirt road back east across the land to the park again. Then we went on to our camp. It is better than the last one for sure. The tent has 4 separate areas. It has where the bed is, then you go through a curtain and there is a dressing room where we have our bags. Then you go through another curtain and you are in the toilet and sink area. The shower is right outside and you unzip to go out there. We have to take our showers in the afternoon as this camp has lots of lions around it and the workers can’t fill up the tanks after dark. We can both take a nice hot shower on the one tank of water. I have to say, I don’t think we have ever roughed it quite this much but we are doing fine. The dining hall is a tent and the meals are cooked over a fire. The last camp was poorly managed and there was only one man, Martin, who seemed to do much work-besides the chef. So I was ready to move on. Omari says this camp is much better run. So far it seems like it is. They both have taken care of us well in terms of supplying us with a battery to run Jim’s CPAP machine. What a difference this makes. We sent a shirt and pair of pants to the laundry at the last camp-thinking they were $1 each as that is what the other camps had been. Nope, there is a basket and the basket is $10. That is fine if they had told us but they didn’t. So it was a bit of a shock to pay that for the two items. Omari talked to the camp director and told him that he did not tell us that and we had no reason to expect it to cost that much so he reduced it for us. But for future OAT tented campers, beware that the mobile camps are $10 a basket if Legacy Safari is running the camp. This has been the most fantastic trip but I have to say I am getting tired. We have one more day of game drives and then we will fly back to Arusha and drive back to Nairobi from there. The rains have come early and this part of Tanzania is already pretty green. The wildebeest are coming back from the Masi Mari and we are seeing them in large groups. We are to the point that whatever we see if just gravy-we could not ask for more!!
On to another mobile tented camp in the northern Serengeti. We left camp and did a game drive for a couple of hours, seeing the family of lions that we saw yesterday. There are about 8 -10 of them and today they were at the watering hole and the babies were all lapping it up from the bridge that had a stream flowing over it. They were so cute! By the time we left, the best viewing was over as they were snoozing under a nearby tree. But there were about 14 vehicles who had gathered to watch them. We moved on as Omari had heard there was a leopard nearby! My oh my, I will never ever spot a leopard by myself. It takes me so long to even find it after they spot one. This one was low on a tree and he blended so well that I don’t see how anyone could have spotted it. He must have lifted his head for someone to spot it. His head was hidden from us but his body was beautiful spread out on the tree limb. I can’t believe we did not have one leopard sighting before and this trip we have seen 4!!! I love it. We later spotted a mother and baby giraffe. The baby was only a few hours old and still had her umbilical cord dangling on her! She was still wobbly and following along behind her mother. It was so sweet! We saw more hyenas and jackals today-it was the silver backed jackal this time. We also spotted the small antelope that is found up here that we had not seen before okapi. We saw lots of Topi as well. We left the Serengeti national park and went through an area that is inhabited by a tribe that kill game to eat. They were given land just outside the Serengeti and they are trying to move them farther away and get them to stop the slaughtering which they are making progress with. We stopped in the town of Mowomo? To get a Coke and for Carolyn to use the internet. She was not successful so we moved on but it was fun to sit and watch the the people go about their business. We took a small dirt road back east across the land to the park again. Then we went on to our camp. It is better than the last one for sure. The tent has 4 separate areas. It has where the bed is, then you go through a curtain and there is a dressing room where we have our bags. Then you go through another curtain and you are in the toilet and sink area. The shower is right outside and you unzip to go out there. We have to take our showers in the afternoon as this camp has lots of lions around it and the workers can’t fill up the tanks after dark. We can both take a nice hot shower on the one tank of water. I have to say, I don’t think we have ever roughed it quite this much but we are doing fine. The dining hall is a tent and the meals are cooked over a fire. The last camp was poorly managed and there was only one man, Martin, who seemed to do much work-besides the chef. So I was ready to move on. Omari says this camp is much better run. So far it seems like it is. They both have taken care of us well in terms of supplying us with a battery to run Jim’s CPAP machine. What a difference this makes. We sent a shirt and pair of pants to the laundry at the last camp-thinking they were $1 each as that is what the other camps had been. Nope, there is a basket and the basket is $10. That is fine if they had told us but they didn’t. So it was a bit of a shock to pay that for the two items. Omari talked to the camp director and told him that he did not tell us that and we had no reason to expect it to cost that much so he reduced it for us. But for future OAT tented campers, beware that the mobile camps are $10 a basket if Legacy Safari is running the camp. This has been the most fantastic trip but I have to say I am getting tired. We have one more day of game drives and then we will fly back to Arusha and drive back to Nairobi from there. The rains have come early and this part of Tanzania is already pretty green. The wildebeest are coming back from the Masi Mari and we are seeing them in large groups. We are to the point that whatever we see if just gravy-we could not ask for more!!
Serengeti
Serengeti day 2
Today we left at 8 AM for our game drive. Del and Carolyn went on the balloon ride so we had to pick them up at 10. So we searched for game for two hours on the way. The animals were slow to come out today and we did not see too much. But it was fun to see the gazelles and the zebras and the giraffes and the things that are easy to spot. I know that this is bold print but doing this in a tent with no lights I can’t see the keyboard and hit something by mistake. We picked up Del and Carolyn and off we went on about 3 more hours of game viewing. We came upon a lion crouched for a kill but I think the vehicles kept that from happening. There were about 3 or 4 lionesses who were together and so after awhile, we went on. Down the road we came upon a lion pride where the mama lion had made a kill of a Thompson’s gazelle. She was not sharing with her babies or anything. There were about 3-4 big lions and about the same number of babies. We stayed and watched for a long time and before it was over, the big lion went down to drink at the water and then came up between the cars and plopped down under a tree in the center of a little circle of road. The babies got adventurous and got under a couple of cars and everyone thoroughly enjoyed watching them. We saw hyenas, hippos, giraffe and so much more. But we did not in general see what we saw yesterday. We came back to the camp for lunch which was not good at all to me. Then we had a couple of hours to rest, take our showers since they have to be done before dark so the guys can fill up the buckets safely. Then at 4, Del and Carolyn and Jim and I went on an afternoon drive with Omari. It was excellent. We saw a big male lion, a rhino which is rare to see in the Serengeti (Omari said one tour in ten sees one) and I saw a female lion walking along about 20 ft from the road as we raced back to the camp. I could not believe I spotted one and Omari thought I was joking so didn’t stop. Our favorite thing of the drive was spotting a mama jackal with babies. She had made an old termite mound into a home and the two little pups were eating around the entrance and they were so cute. The Mama watched from a distance after we drove up. I don’t even mention the elephants, the cape buffalo, the zebra, the gazelles, the topi, the hartebeest and other things we saw. Another great day.
I have to say that these tents are a bit too rough for me. There are no lights except run by battery so are very dim and you are encouraged to use them as little as possible. But they have hooked Jim’s CPAP up to one so I can’t help but appreciate the staff for that. The generator to charge batteries doesn’t work but a few hours a day so it is more difficult than in some camps. The bed is lumpy and not comfortable and there is no chair inside to sit in at all. You can’t walk anywhere except in the center of the camp so there is not much to do during the down time. Last night we had them roll up the sides of the tent so we could hear the noises and there was a stampede of zebra about midnight right by our tent. It woke me up and I could hear them in front of the tent and one beside the tent. I heard a hyena and a few other sounds as well. Wonder what I will hear tonight.
Today we left at 8 AM for our game drive. Del and Carolyn went on the balloon ride so we had to pick them up at 10. So we searched for game for two hours on the way. The animals were slow to come out today and we did not see too much. But it was fun to see the gazelles and the zebras and the giraffes and the things that are easy to spot. I know that this is bold print but doing this in a tent with no lights I can’t see the keyboard and hit something by mistake. We picked up Del and Carolyn and off we went on about 3 more hours of game viewing. We came upon a lion crouched for a kill but I think the vehicles kept that from happening. There were about 3 or 4 lionesses who were together and so after awhile, we went on. Down the road we came upon a lion pride where the mama lion had made a kill of a Thompson’s gazelle. She was not sharing with her babies or anything. There were about 3-4 big lions and about the same number of babies. We stayed and watched for a long time and before it was over, the big lion went down to drink at the water and then came up between the cars and plopped down under a tree in the center of a little circle of road. The babies got adventurous and got under a couple of cars and everyone thoroughly enjoyed watching them. We saw hyenas, hippos, giraffe and so much more. But we did not in general see what we saw yesterday. We came back to the camp for lunch which was not good at all to me. Then we had a couple of hours to rest, take our showers since they have to be done before dark so the guys can fill up the buckets safely. Then at 4, Del and Carolyn and Jim and I went on an afternoon drive with Omari. It was excellent. We saw a big male lion, a rhino which is rare to see in the Serengeti (Omari said one tour in ten sees one) and I saw a female lion walking along about 20 ft from the road as we raced back to the camp. I could not believe I spotted one and Omari thought I was joking so didn’t stop. Our favorite thing of the drive was spotting a mama jackal with babies. She had made an old termite mound into a home and the two little pups were eating around the entrance and they were so cute. The Mama watched from a distance after we drove up. I don’t even mention the elephants, the cape buffalo, the zebra, the gazelles, the topi, the hartebeest and other things we saw. Another great day.
I have to say that these tents are a bit too rough for me. There are no lights except run by battery so are very dim and you are encouraged to use them as little as possible. But they have hooked Jim’s CPAP up to one so I can’t help but appreciate the staff for that. The generator to charge batteries doesn’t work but a few hours a day so it is more difficult than in some camps. The bed is lumpy and not comfortable and there is no chair inside to sit in at all. You can’t walk anywhere except in the center of the camp so there is not much to do during the down time. Last night we had them roll up the sides of the tent so we could hear the noises and there was a stampede of zebra about midnight right by our tent. It woke me up and I could hear them in front of the tent and one beside the tent. I heard a hyena and a few other sounds as well. Wonder what I will hear tonight.
Friday, September 3, 2010
Lazy Day
Today has been a restful day and a chance to catch up on both rest and internet (free) and to just relax and enjoy this lovely camp. We got up early to go on an early game drive. This tented camp is right in the corner of the southern part of the serrengeti and is adjacent to the park. This time of the year, the majority of the animals have migrated to the north so there is less to see here this time of year. But there are still animals and it is nice in a different sort of way. There are dikdiks all over this camp and they are the tinest of the antelopes and are so fast that they are difficult to spot when out on a drive. We have seen a lot on this trip but to walk out the door of the lounge area and see a dikdik standing there looking at you is special! There are also cape buffalo that roam the camp, especially at night and leave evidence of their being here. The staff heard a lion last night but we didn't-we were sound asleep.
On our drive, we saw spotted hyenas that Omari drove right up next to and they just looked at us. I had never seen hyenas before til this trip and today was our closest encounter. There are so many pretty birds here. My favorite is the Fishers Lovebird that is like a tiny parrot-about the size of paraqueet or smaller.
We saw elephants, warthogs, zebra, cape buffalo, several giraffe, lots of gazelles-the Thompsons and the Grants, hippos, tons of birds, good sighting of the banded mongoose. So it was a great drive even if the wildlife was more scattered. We came back to camp and had a nice lunch and have had the afternoon free to rest and recoup. Cokes are free as well as the internet so that has been nice. On this trip, even the water at the meals has been extra except in a couple of camps.Our vehicle is ancient but we really like it. We take off our shoes and we can stand in the seats to look out the roof when the roof hatches are open on drives. It has individual seats and we are rotating well. So even though the vehicle is well worn, we like it and the bumpy rides have not been nearly as bad as we had expected. We had brought inflatable pillows and we do not need them at all. The dust is the worst part of some of the drives and we brought masks, at the advice of friends (thanks, Lynn, David and Carol!). I have enough for everyone and we have worn them. We brought pens to give out to children after we read the book TALES OF TANZANIA and the children on the drives have been so excited. They run to meet our vehicle. Most are Maasai but some are other tribes and they are out tending the goats. We walked through one village this week and it was so sweet. At one house there was a little brother and sister-about 2 and 3, I would guess. At first they are very shy but after we visited a while, he asked our guide how we got our white hands! He asked if we had had our skin taken off to get it so white! He just kept wanting to hold our hands and look at them. Precious precious children.
Moving camps every two nights has been more tiring than the trip to Botswana was but we are seeing so much. Each place has been different. Laundry is done for $1 a piece except for one of the first camps that charged $2. We have used it a lot for pants and shirts as that is just so reasonable. The last lodge was the Tloma lodge and it had the best food for me-most of the time I have had to be very picky. They cook things for me without the garlic and onions but it is not my taste. Omari has gone out of his way to assure that Jim has power at night. He even says he can get them to hook up a generator in the mobile tented camps. I hope so. He rests so much better with his CPAP. But we are loving this adventure and can't wait to share photos when the journey is over and I have time on my computer!
On our drive, we saw spotted hyenas that Omari drove right up next to and they just looked at us. I had never seen hyenas before til this trip and today was our closest encounter. There are so many pretty birds here. My favorite is the Fishers Lovebird that is like a tiny parrot-about the size of paraqueet or smaller.
We saw elephants, warthogs, zebra, cape buffalo, several giraffe, lots of gazelles-the Thompsons and the Grants, hippos, tons of birds, good sighting of the banded mongoose. So it was a great drive even if the wildlife was more scattered. We came back to camp and had a nice lunch and have had the afternoon free to rest and recoup. Cokes are free as well as the internet so that has been nice. On this trip, even the water at the meals has been extra except in a couple of camps.Our vehicle is ancient but we really like it. We take off our shoes and we can stand in the seats to look out the roof when the roof hatches are open on drives. It has individual seats and we are rotating well. So even though the vehicle is well worn, we like it and the bumpy rides have not been nearly as bad as we had expected. We had brought inflatable pillows and we do not need them at all. The dust is the worst part of some of the drives and we brought masks, at the advice of friends (thanks, Lynn, David and Carol!). I have enough for everyone and we have worn them. We brought pens to give out to children after we read the book TALES OF TANZANIA and the children on the drives have been so excited. They run to meet our vehicle. Most are Maasai but some are other tribes and they are out tending the goats. We walked through one village this week and it was so sweet. At one house there was a little brother and sister-about 2 and 3, I would guess. At first they are very shy but after we visited a while, he asked our guide how we got our white hands! He asked if we had had our skin taken off to get it so white! He just kept wanting to hold our hands and look at them. Precious precious children.
Moving camps every two nights has been more tiring than the trip to Botswana was but we are seeing so much. Each place has been different. Laundry is done for $1 a piece except for one of the first camps that charged $2. We have used it a lot for pants and shirts as that is just so reasonable. The last lodge was the Tloma lodge and it had the best food for me-most of the time I have had to be very picky. They cook things for me without the garlic and onions but it is not my taste. Omari has gone out of his way to assure that Jim has power at night. He even says he can get them to hook up a generator in the mobile tented camps. I hope so. He rests so much better with his CPAP. But we are loving this adventure and can't wait to share photos when the journey is over and I have time on my computer!
Lake Masek
We had a great three hour game drive early this morning. We saw a lot of things even though these were sort of spread out. We laugh that we have gotten very jaded about seeing so much and expecting them to just come up to the road in a line for us to see. I think my two favorite sightings were the two sets of spotted hyenas we saw that we were right next do and they just looked at us and let us take their photo. We also saw a great elephant family with several babies and they entertained us for awhile as they moved across the road in front of us. Right now, the hippos in Lake Masek are entertaining me as I write this. Our tents here are so nice. They are huge and have both a tub and a shower. The shower is outside-a cement sided shower with a door into our tent. It is actually really nice but it is still a little cool here at night so it was a little brisk shower! The tub felt mighty good too. We said we were the dirtiest yesterday that we had ever been on this trip. We had driven for several hours over one lane dirt roads that were SO dusty. It just caked us all.
We have a free afternoon today and it sounds pretty nice. This camp is new and everything is so nice. The eating area and verandah are nice to sit and birdwatch, read or watch the hippos below. We have slept well but we have been on the go constantly. We could take a walk this afternoon but I think we will pass on it and just relax. The birds here are gorgeous. We have seen so many and have some great photos. Well they are calling me for lunch so I will close and send this for now. Since internet is free here, I will get on again and try to send some photos though so far, none has sent.
We have a free afternoon today and it sounds pretty nice. This camp is new and everything is so nice. The eating area and verandah are nice to sit and birdwatch, read or watch the hippos below. We have slept well but we have been on the go constantly. We could take a walk this afternoon but I think we will pass on it and just relax. The birds here are gorgeous. We have seen so many and have some great photos. Well they are calling me for lunch so I will close and send this for now. Since internet is free here, I will get on again and try to send some photos though so far, none has sent.
Lake Masek
Ngorogoro Crater
Today we left our lodge and went the short distance to Ngorogoro Crater. Wow. What an interesting place that is! We journeyed down the windy road to get to the bottom of the crater and then we did a long game drive. There is so much game in the crater and it stays fairly constant. We saw a golden jackel on the side of the road as we started. He was lying in the road and did not move when we drove up and stopped and took all the photos we wanted. Next we spotted a pair of female lions who were sleeping up on a hillside. Then we saw a number of vehicles parked and we knew something was up. It was a pair of lions mating. The male was a big guy with the black mane. Later we saw a pair of ostrich mating so we had our biology lesson for the day. We spotted two big male lions with the black manes resting near a stream. They are just beautiful animals. We saw hyenas sleeping two or three places. They are so much bigger than I expected. We saw a silver backed jackal and of course we saw “the usual “ cape buffaloes, zebras, gazelles of all kinds and wildebeest. It was a really neat game drive.
When we left the crater, we stopped for a picnic lunch on our way out of the park-with zebra grazing nearby and birds waiting for us to drop crumbs. Then we drove to Oldvai Gorge where the bones of early man were found.
Then we drove on to our tented camp, Masek Tented Camp. It is a pretty new camp and is very well done. The tents are huge and have double sinks, a tub, and an outside shower-where you can shower in private with just the stars above.
Today we left our lodge and went the short distance to Ngorogoro Crater. Wow. What an interesting place that is! We journeyed down the windy road to get to the bottom of the crater and then we did a long game drive. There is so much game in the crater and it stays fairly constant. We saw a golden jackel on the side of the road as we started. He was lying in the road and did not move when we drove up and stopped and took all the photos we wanted. Next we spotted a pair of female lions who were sleeping up on a hillside. Then we saw a number of vehicles parked and we knew something was up. It was a pair of lions mating. The male was a big guy with the black mane. Later we saw a pair of ostrich mating so we had our biology lesson for the day. We spotted two big male lions with the black manes resting near a stream. They are just beautiful animals. We saw hyenas sleeping two or three places. They are so much bigger than I expected. We saw a silver backed jackal and of course we saw “the usual “ cape buffaloes, zebras, gazelles of all kinds and wildebeest. It was a really neat game drive.
When we left the crater, we stopped for a picnic lunch on our way out of the park-with zebra grazing nearby and birds waiting for us to drop crumbs. Then we drove to Oldvai Gorge where the bones of early man were found.
Then we drove on to our tented camp, Masek Tented Camp. It is a pretty new camp and is very well done. The tents are huge and have double sinks, a tub, and an outside shower-where you can shower in private with just the stars above.
Wednesday, September 1, 2010
Tanzania
Today we are at Tloma lodge which is on a coffee plantation and they grow their own food and man, is it good! I think it is the best so far,food wise. No animals around though., We spent the morning going to the Iraqw tribe that is all around here and it was very different and a lot of fun. This afternoon we took a tour near here to the elephant caves where the elephants dig out the caves with their tusks to get to nutrients they need. It was, for me, a pretty strenuous climb but I made it and it was so interesting.
I am going to try to put on a few photos as there is not too much to write tonight. Well they won't do because the internet is so slow.,
I am going to try to put on a few photos as there is not too much to write tonight. Well they won't do because the internet is so slow.,
Tuesday, August 31, 2010
On to Ngorogoro highlands
I am not sure that any of these posts are in the right order or whether you can read them. I am doing them each night and copying them now. The internet is slow and some may be missing. I will redo them or at least check them when I get to free internet. Same with photos. Man, there is so much to tell! We left this AM and drove to Lake Manyana national park. We didn't see any tree climbing lions but we did see a kipspringer and the biggest hornbbill, whatever it is called. We ate lunch with yet another tribe and had a really great day. I will try to say more later but need to get off the computer. We are staying on a coffee plantation and it is so pretty and lush. Rooms are great and we will be taking a break for two days from game drives. Jim and I are both doing well and seeing SOOO much.
Dusty Day
Today we left Ambroseli and headed to Lake Burunge so that we can visit Tangaire National Park tomorrow. We headed out and did a game drive as we headed toward the border of Tanzania. It took us about two hours to get to what seemed like a main road, but we didn’t mind even despite the dust as we went through Ambroseli National park again and saw wildlife all along the way. We saw the usual elephants and Thompson’s Gazelles and enjoyed watching them a short while but then we hit two lions waiting and watching. One was crouched and waiting but the other wildlife was still pretty far away. The other was hiding in a clump of bush just watching. We drove on and saw the usual zebra and wildebeest and such. Then when we got to a more remote part of the park, we came upon four genuck-the antelope that stand on their back legs to eat from trees. They have long necks similar to giraffes and are pretty skittish so are rare to see. These were by the road and one ran to one side and the other three to the other. Omari told me tonight that there actually was one on its hind legs eating from a tree but it was too hard for us to spot so he didn’t mention it! That sighting was very exciting.
We arrived mid morning at the border crossing. We had to go in to exit Kenya which didn’t take long at all. Then we crossed the border into Tanzania and had to go to the office there. Jim did not read the signs above the window and the man did not think he had a visa so he demanded $100. The rest of us went to other windows-I had mine open to the Tanzania visa so the lady told me no charge and I was done. So when they wanted the money from Jim, we were all gasping. Omari took care of it by explaining to the man that he had a visa, Jim found it and showed it to him and we were on our way.
From there we drove to Arusha which was much bigger than I expected and much busier. We went to lunch at a nice restaurant at a place where handicapped people make beads and things from recycled glass. It is such a nice project and very much needed and worthwhile. At the lunch, we all got so tickled about the desserts . The waiter was so possessive and would not let us go to the table to get it, but brought the cart around. The cake slices were so tiny that they were not even one good bite. And he was very strict with the merrenges too. We just laughed til we cried it was so funny.
We went by the money exchange and the ATM.
The countryside is so different here. The dirt is so fine and the dust is unreal. So many of the roads are unpaved and it amazes me how many maasai there are. You see the bomas everywhere and they are easy to see because of their dress. They take the cattle and goats out to graze each day and the ladies do the building of the houses and other work.
The last 12 miles toward Burunge were not paved and they are working on building the road and oh my, was it dusty. I had brought masks and gave them to everyone and we used them periodically through the day and were grateful for them at this point in the drive. We arrived at the tented camp and we love this one. It is very isolated, not fenced and the tent is lovely and big. They put Jim ande in the first tent and he can use the power all night. This is huge for him. Omari is being very helpful about that. It has mosquito netting for night and each tent is private.
We had a nice dinner and we are the only ones here. Another oat group is coming in tomorrow so we won’t have the camp to ourselves but will be able to visit with them. We can hear the animal noises. Ahhhh this is what it is all about! We charge our batteries up at the
Today we left Ambroseli and headed to Lake Burunge so that we can visit Tangaire National Park tomorrow. We headed out and did a game drive as we headed toward the border of Tanzania. It took us about two hours to get to what seemed like a main road, but we didn’t mind even despite the dust as we went through Ambroseli National park again and saw wildlife all along the way. We saw the usual elephants and Thompson’s Gazelles and enjoyed watching them a short while but then we hit two lions waiting and watching. One was crouched and waiting but the other wildlife was still pretty far away. The other was hiding in a clump of bush just watching. We drove on and saw the usual zebra and wildebeest and such. Then when we got to a more remote part of the park, we came upon four genuck-the antelope that stand on their back legs to eat from trees. They have long necks similar to giraffes and are pretty skittish so are rare to see. These were by the road and one ran to one side and the other three to the other. Omari told me tonight that there actually was one on its hind legs eating from a tree but it was too hard for us to spot so he didn’t mention it! That sighting was very exciting.
We arrived mid morning at the border crossing. We had to go in to exit Kenya which didn’t take long at all. Then we crossed the border into Tanzania and had to go to the office there. Jim did not read the signs above the window and the man did not think he had a visa so he demanded $100. The rest of us went to other windows-I had mine open to the Tanzania visa so the lady told me no charge and I was done. So when they wanted the money from Jim, we were all gasping. Omari took care of it by explaining to the man that he had a visa, Jim found it and showed it to him and we were on our way.
From there we drove to Arusha which was much bigger than I expected and much busier. We went to lunch at a nice restaurant at a place where handicapped people make beads and things from recycled glass. It is such a nice project and very much needed and worthwhile. At the lunch, we all got so tickled about the desserts . The waiter was so possessive and would not let us go to the table to get it, but brought the cart around. The cake slices were so tiny that they were not even one good bite. And he was very strict with the merrenges too. We just laughed til we cried it was so funny.
We went by the money exchange and the ATM.
The countryside is so different here. The dirt is so fine and the dust is unreal. So many of the roads are unpaved and it amazes me how many maasai there are. You see the bomas everywhere and they are easy to see because of their dress. They take the cattle and goats out to graze each day and the ladies do the building of the houses and other work.
The last 12 miles toward Burunge were not paved and they are working on building the road and oh my, was it dusty. I had brought masks and gave them to everyone and we used them periodically through the day and were grateful for them at this point in the drive. We arrived at the tented camp and we love this one. It is very isolated, not fenced and the tent is lovely and big. They put Jim ande in the first tent and he can use the power all night. This is huge for him. Omari is being very helpful about that. It has mosquito netting for night and each tent is private.
We had a nice dinner and we are the only ones here. Another oat group is coming in tomorrow so we won’t have the camp to ourselves but will be able to visit with them. We can hear the animal noises. Ahhhh this is what it is all about! We charge our batteries up at the
On to Ambroseli
This morning we arose early and walked down to the jetty. Two of the staff were there to talk to us about the animals as we walked. The waterbuck were asleep on the lawn outside our room again which was neat and were up and grazing as we started out. Just over the bridge, the first giraffe appeared. Then there was a mama and baby that was about 6-8 months old. It was so amazing to stand that close and watch them move around so freely. There probably were 8 or 10 around in the area this AM and these are the Masai giraffes which are darker and smaller than the ones we saw in Botswana. We moved on down to the jetty and watched the birds and zebra and other animals that were moving about early in the AM.
We left the lodge which was just a superb lodge. Then we stopped around the bend and took a two hour boat ride and nature walk on Crescent lake. We saw pied kingfishers galore and comorants and pelicans and yellow billed storks. There were hippos everywhere and we would go a little farther and there would be two eyes peeking above the water checking us out. The neatest pod we saw had a baby sunning up on the rock and most of the others were laying in the water all over each other. The mama hippo was in the water nearby watching her half grown baby. The boat driver picked up some fish and we rode over near the fish eagles and he called them down by whistling and throwing them in the water. The fish eagle would swoop down and get it. It was neat to see and we did a pretty good job of capturing it on camera.
From there we got back in the van and took off for the Nairobi airport. Today was a huge holiday because of the new constitution that passed in Kenya. Everyone was off work and roads were closed. So we had to go a longer way to get to the airport to check on our luggage. It is very interesting to drive and see the way of life. It is very different but the people seem happy and to enjoy life. They stay outside and are so active physically.
We got to Nairobi airport about noon and Omari took Jim and me to the security office where we had to hand over our passports and they gave us badges to wear through security as we were going through the staff entrance. We had to go through security just like we do when we go through it ourselves to fly. That put us coming in right at the baggage place where we were the other night. I spotted the orange duck tape right away and knew it had arrived. We presented our paperwork and claimed our two duffel bags and left happy campers! We returned our badges and got our passports back and considered it all another discovery event as OAT likes to call things.
We got back on the road and some of the back roads were REALLY rough with potholes that were so big you had to go offroad to get around them. The seatbelts in the van don’t work so we hold our breath a lot. Again, cars passed on both sides and in short distances. We made a couple of stops for a box lunch and to use the bathroom, such as it is.
It was a long drive on into our lodge but along the way, we did see some animal-giraffe, impala, zebra, and camels! Yes, there was a camel farm along the way. We arrived at Amboseli but on the final stretch of the dirt, bumpy road, there suddenly appeared two dozen or so elephants right by the road. It was so dusty and they were not terribly happy at us stopping to watch. One even did a mock charge! There was a mama and baby and several just huge old guys! Two safari vehicles joined us shortly and after a nice time of watching, we moved on and got to our tented camp-Ambroseli Sentrim. It is very nice. The bathroom especially is more modern and bigger than any we have stayed in. No electricity between 11-5 so this will be a big test. Before the evening was over, we killed two scorpions in the tent. That does not make me feel good. The restaurant is open air and so nice. All in all a very very good
This morning we arose early and walked down to the jetty. Two of the staff were there to talk to us about the animals as we walked. The waterbuck were asleep on the lawn outside our room again which was neat and were up and grazing as we started out. Just over the bridge, the first giraffe appeared. Then there was a mama and baby that was about 6-8 months old. It was so amazing to stand that close and watch them move around so freely. There probably were 8 or 10 around in the area this AM and these are the Masai giraffes which are darker and smaller than the ones we saw in Botswana. We moved on down to the jetty and watched the birds and zebra and other animals that were moving about early in the AM.
We left the lodge which was just a superb lodge. Then we stopped around the bend and took a two hour boat ride and nature walk on Crescent lake. We saw pied kingfishers galore and comorants and pelicans and yellow billed storks. There were hippos everywhere and we would go a little farther and there would be two eyes peeking above the water checking us out. The neatest pod we saw had a baby sunning up on the rock and most of the others were laying in the water all over each other. The mama hippo was in the water nearby watching her half grown baby. The boat driver picked up some fish and we rode over near the fish eagles and he called them down by whistling and throwing them in the water. The fish eagle would swoop down and get it. It was neat to see and we did a pretty good job of capturing it on camera.
From there we got back in the van and took off for the Nairobi airport. Today was a huge holiday because of the new constitution that passed in Kenya. Everyone was off work and roads were closed. So we had to go a longer way to get to the airport to check on our luggage. It is very interesting to drive and see the way of life. It is very different but the people seem happy and to enjoy life. They stay outside and are so active physically.
We got to Nairobi airport about noon and Omari took Jim and me to the security office where we had to hand over our passports and they gave us badges to wear through security as we were going through the staff entrance. We had to go through security just like we do when we go through it ourselves to fly. That put us coming in right at the baggage place where we were the other night. I spotted the orange duck tape right away and knew it had arrived. We presented our paperwork and claimed our two duffel bags and left happy campers! We returned our badges and got our passports back and considered it all another discovery event as OAT likes to call things.
We got back on the road and some of the back roads were REALLY rough with potholes that were so big you had to go offroad to get around them. The seatbelts in the van don’t work so we hold our breath a lot. Again, cars passed on both sides and in short distances. We made a couple of stops for a box lunch and to use the bathroom, such as it is.
It was a long drive on into our lodge but along the way, we did see some animal-giraffe, impala, zebra, and camels! Yes, there was a camel farm along the way. We arrived at Amboseli but on the final stretch of the dirt, bumpy road, there suddenly appeared two dozen or so elephants right by the road. It was so dusty and they were not terribly happy at us stopping to watch. One even did a mock charge! There was a mama and baby and several just huge old guys! Two safari vehicles joined us shortly and after a nice time of watching, we moved on and got to our tented camp-Ambroseli Sentrim. It is very nice. The bathroom especially is more modern and bigger than any we have stayed in. No electricity between 11-5 so this will be a big test. Before the evening was over, we killed two scorpions in the tent. That does not make me feel good. The restaurant is open air and so nice. All in all a very very good
Ambroseli National Park and the Masai
Today was a bit of a mix up day. When we left dinner last night, Omari told us that we were to rise at 5:30 and eat breakfast at 6 and meet at 6:30 to go to visit the Masai tribe. We all were there and it turns out, Omari had told the lodge to notify us of a change in plans because it was a holiday and there was no school so we would go later than originally planned. Only no one from the lodge came and told us. That didn’t sit too well with a lot of folks. Jim did not sleep at all last night once the power went out and he did not have his CPAP machine. So he was very tired and so was Carolyn, who had been kept up by the noisy kids who were in the tents behind them. We all heard them as the tents are too close together to suit my fancy. They are gorgeous tents with granite countertops in the bathrooms and lovely everything. But it is rather like living in a trailer park since they have an electric fence to keep the animals out! But to get to this area, it is a nice lodge, but just not my favorite in the way it is planned. The food is excellent to everyone else and the chef has been great to me-even fixing tomato wine soup tonight with no garlic or onions! And it was so good. Anyway, we were not in the best of moods as we left the camp.
But the visit to the Masai was very very interesting and we all enjoyed it. The leader’s name is Joseph and he showed us around as did some of his men. They showed us how they make fire each time and they had a lovely one going within 3 minutes. They took us into the boma and showed us how they live and explained a lot of their traditions. While we were there, one of the hot air balloons landed just up the hill which was fun to see. Mt Killamanjaro was hidden behind the clouds today but during our Masai visit, it peeked its head out behind the clouds which was thrilling. At the end of the visit, the ladies of the village had their beadwork for sale and we bought a couple of items for our travel wall. We enjoyed playing with the children and we gave our items we had bought for the school to Joseph who is the director of the school. The school was beautiful and was built with the help of the GCT foundation and is going to do much to improve the life of the masai.
We said our goodbyes and headed back to the lodge where we had several free hours but no power except from 1-2. During lunch, it came up about the CPAP having no power. Larry asked why we didn’t use the backup power. I said “what backup power”.Turns out that two tents have backup solar power-but we had not been given one of those tents but Larry and Elaine had. They offered to trade, but instead I asked if the other tent was occupied and it was not. So they moved us over there and were very nice about it. We rushed as the group had also contacted Omari and asked him if we could start the afternoon drive at 2 instead of 3. So we felt pretty disjointed by having to grab our stuff and rush to get it all moved, but it was worth it. However, the solar power lights the bathroom and the bed lights so when the power is on, if you run those lights, then it uses the saved power. So we showered with the candlelight of a wind up battery lantern! After the adventure with the scorpions last night, we decided it was just another discovery event! Jim is now peacefully sleeping with the cpap on and I am hoping it will last all night.
On the game drive, we saw so many animals. It was very different than I expected as the land here is flat and barren. There are a few trees but nothing like we have seen before so it was long stretches of flat grassland that is void of grass for much of it because it is the dry season. We saw so much though- lots of ostriches! We probably saw closer to 2 dozen of them over the course of the drive. We saw our first hyena and as we were leaving the park, we saw a lion asleep in the middle of a sandy patch! We saw rhinos in the marsh, over 200 elephants , wildebeast (a different type than we saw in Botswana) and tons of zebra and cape buffalo and Thompson’s gazelles. It looks like the Thompson’s gazelles are as common here as the impala were in Botswana. We saw two kinds of jackels-the silver backed and the golden. We saw a couple of dozen secretary birds and a lovely saddle back stork. We took time to sit and watch the animals and not just photograph them and move on which I enjoyed. So it was a very satisfying visit.
We came back and ate dinner and worked a little to pack for our leaving tomorrow. Omari says the next camp is much better than this one for our liking-the animals will be around us and no fence to keep them out. So we are all looking forward to it , though it will be a long day’s drive.
.
Today was a bit of a mix up day. When we left dinner last night, Omari told us that we were to rise at 5:30 and eat breakfast at 6 and meet at 6:30 to go to visit the Masai tribe. We all were there and it turns out, Omari had told the lodge to notify us of a change in plans because it was a holiday and there was no school so we would go later than originally planned. Only no one from the lodge came and told us. That didn’t sit too well with a lot of folks. Jim did not sleep at all last night once the power went out and he did not have his CPAP machine. So he was very tired and so was Carolyn, who had been kept up by the noisy kids who were in the tents behind them. We all heard them as the tents are too close together to suit my fancy. They are gorgeous tents with granite countertops in the bathrooms and lovely everything. But it is rather like living in a trailer park since they have an electric fence to keep the animals out! But to get to this area, it is a nice lodge, but just not my favorite in the way it is planned. The food is excellent to everyone else and the chef has been great to me-even fixing tomato wine soup tonight with no garlic or onions! And it was so good. Anyway, we were not in the best of moods as we left the camp.
But the visit to the Masai was very very interesting and we all enjoyed it. The leader’s name is Joseph and he showed us around as did some of his men. They showed us how they make fire each time and they had a lovely one going within 3 minutes. They took us into the boma and showed us how they live and explained a lot of their traditions. While we were there, one of the hot air balloons landed just up the hill which was fun to see. Mt Killamanjaro was hidden behind the clouds today but during our Masai visit, it peeked its head out behind the clouds which was thrilling. At the end of the visit, the ladies of the village had their beadwork for sale and we bought a couple of items for our travel wall. We enjoyed playing with the children and we gave our items we had bought for the school to Joseph who is the director of the school. The school was beautiful and was built with the help of the GCT foundation and is going to do much to improve the life of the masai.
We said our goodbyes and headed back to the lodge where we had several free hours but no power except from 1-2. During lunch, it came up about the CPAP having no power. Larry asked why we didn’t use the backup power. I said “what backup power”.Turns out that two tents have backup solar power-but we had not been given one of those tents but Larry and Elaine had. They offered to trade, but instead I asked if the other tent was occupied and it was not. So they moved us over there and were very nice about it. We rushed as the group had also contacted Omari and asked him if we could start the afternoon drive at 2 instead of 3. So we felt pretty disjointed by having to grab our stuff and rush to get it all moved, but it was worth it. However, the solar power lights the bathroom and the bed lights so when the power is on, if you run those lights, then it uses the saved power. So we showered with the candlelight of a wind up battery lantern! After the adventure with the scorpions last night, we decided it was just another discovery event! Jim is now peacefully sleeping with the cpap on and I am hoping it will last all night.
On the game drive, we saw so many animals. It was very different than I expected as the land here is flat and barren. There are a few trees but nothing like we have seen before so it was long stretches of flat grassland that is void of grass for much of it because it is the dry season. We saw so much though- lots of ostriches! We probably saw closer to 2 dozen of them over the course of the drive. We saw our first hyena and as we were leaving the park, we saw a lion asleep in the middle of a sandy patch! We saw rhinos in the marsh, over 200 elephants , wildebeast (a different type than we saw in Botswana) and tons of zebra and cape buffalo and Thompson’s gazelles. It looks like the Thompson’s gazelles are as common here as the impala were in Botswana. We saw two kinds of jackels-the silver backed and the golden. We saw a couple of dozen secretary birds and a lovely saddle back stork. We took time to sit and watch the animals and not just photograph them and move on which I enjoyed. So it was a very satisfying visit.
We came back and ate dinner and worked a little to pack for our leaving tomorrow. Omari says the next camp is much better than this one for our liking-the animals will be around us and no fence to keep them out. So we are all looking forward to it , though it will be a long day’s drive.
.
Nakuru National Park, Kenya
Wow. What an awesome day! Still no luggage and the report last night that it would arrive today was erroneous. Now we are hoping it is enroute to Nairobi today and we can pick it up at the airport on our way tomorrow. Meanwhile we are washing clothes and buying new tshirts to wear. We wish we had packed more socks and underwear! Lol But we are managing!
Today we drove to Nakuru National Park and it was just full of wildlife! We did not spot a leopard unfortunately but we saw so much else. We saw several types of antelopes that we had never seen before-Thompson’s gazelles, and Elands. We saw a herd of rhinoceros and some were black ones and some were white ones. It was amazing to watch them. The car decided not to start when we were ready to leave so we held our breath as Omari had to get out and tighten some connections and the white rhino was not that far away. Watching him time his exit from the vehicle, he has a health respect for the rhinos! We saw lots of baboons and some dik dik and several types of the vervet monkeys. We saw the gorgous pink flamingos-by the thousands and oh my, are they something to see fly. We saw storks and a masked weaver working on his nest. The sheer amount of wildlife here is amazing. We cape buffalo by the hundreds and impala and a pair of jackals.
The weather was wonderful and we took the top of the vehicle off and were able to stand (sock feet) and get good views of everything. We had lunch at the Lion Hill Lodge which was wonderful and the staff was so helpful to me with getting me the right food. There were beautiful birds all around the yard.
We were amazed at being passed on both the right and left hand side of the van simultaneously-rather unnerving! The life here is so interesting to watch. The average person still dresses with native attire of sorts and most business is transacted in small stalls on the street. There are pockets of great poverty and living in pretty grim circumstances. Other areas are very clean and more prosperous.
It was a great day and we all came home very happy. But the fun didn’t end there. Jim and I walked back out to the water which is about a ¼ mile I estimate from the lodge on the back of the lodge property. About 1/3 of the way there, you go over a little gulley with a bridge that they lock at night to keep the animals from coming onto the grounds. But the waterbucks just jump over that. So therefore, they are on the grounds near the lodge a lot. Last night they were out from our patio and they slept and grazed all night which was so neat. There are spotlights enough so that you can see them, without it being too light. I love this lodge. It is just delightful. Jim and I saw a giraffe right after we crossed over the gulley and enjoyed stopping to just watch him. He eventually meandered farther away so we went on down to the jetty. There was not as much wildlife visible when we first got there so we just enjoyed the quiet and the flowers that are beginning to open and the birds that are so plentiful. I saw a pied kingfisher as well as the superb starlings that are so beautiful. Then we headed back to the lodge and to our right, we spied a whole group of giraffe. I later counted and there were 12 of them. They are Masi giraffes and the spots are so beautiful and dark. There was a small lake pond between us and them and it made such a pretty scene. We stood there and enjoyed watching them and happened to glance around and there was a maribou stork walking toward us about 10 paces from us. As we stood watching her, a male stork flew down and came toward us as well, though I imagine it was his lady friend he was heading toward. Before we knew it, there were 3 males and this one female and they headed toward the pond and walked right by us. About that time, someone spooked the giraffes and they started running right by us. It was a beautiful sight! They formed a long line and were just so neat. It is an incredible experience to be able to stand close enough to these animals and observe them and take in the beauty and majesty of them.
What a wonderful 45th anniversary it was for us.
Wow. What an awesome day! Still no luggage and the report last night that it would arrive today was erroneous. Now we are hoping it is enroute to Nairobi today and we can pick it up at the airport on our way tomorrow. Meanwhile we are washing clothes and buying new tshirts to wear. We wish we had packed more socks and underwear! Lol But we are managing!
Today we drove to Nakuru National Park and it was just full of wildlife! We did not spot a leopard unfortunately but we saw so much else. We saw several types of antelopes that we had never seen before-Thompson’s gazelles, and Elands. We saw a herd of rhinoceros and some were black ones and some were white ones. It was amazing to watch them. The car decided not to start when we were ready to leave so we held our breath as Omari had to get out and tighten some connections and the white rhino was not that far away. Watching him time his exit from the vehicle, he has a health respect for the rhinos! We saw lots of baboons and some dik dik and several types of the vervet monkeys. We saw the gorgous pink flamingos-by the thousands and oh my, are they something to see fly. We saw storks and a masked weaver working on his nest. The sheer amount of wildlife here is amazing. We cape buffalo by the hundreds and impala and a pair of jackals.
The weather was wonderful and we took the top of the vehicle off and were able to stand (sock feet) and get good views of everything. We had lunch at the Lion Hill Lodge which was wonderful and the staff was so helpful to me with getting me the right food. There were beautiful birds all around the yard.
We were amazed at being passed on both the right and left hand side of the van simultaneously-rather unnerving! The life here is so interesting to watch. The average person still dresses with native attire of sorts and most business is transacted in small stalls on the street. There are pockets of great poverty and living in pretty grim circumstances. Other areas are very clean and more prosperous.
It was a great day and we all came home very happy. But the fun didn’t end there. Jim and I walked back out to the water which is about a ¼ mile I estimate from the lodge on the back of the lodge property. About 1/3 of the way there, you go over a little gulley with a bridge that they lock at night to keep the animals from coming onto the grounds. But the waterbucks just jump over that. So therefore, they are on the grounds near the lodge a lot. Last night they were out from our patio and they slept and grazed all night which was so neat. There are spotlights enough so that you can see them, without it being too light. I love this lodge. It is just delightful. Jim and I saw a giraffe right after we crossed over the gulley and enjoyed stopping to just watch him. He eventually meandered farther away so we went on down to the jetty. There was not as much wildlife visible when we first got there so we just enjoyed the quiet and the flowers that are beginning to open and the birds that are so plentiful. I saw a pied kingfisher as well as the superb starlings that are so beautiful. Then we headed back to the lodge and to our right, we spied a whole group of giraffe. I later counted and there were 12 of them. They are Masi giraffes and the spots are so beautiful and dark. There was a small lake pond between us and them and it made such a pretty scene. We stood there and enjoyed watching them and happened to glance around and there was a maribou stork walking toward us about 10 paces from us. As we stood watching her, a male stork flew down and came toward us as well, though I imagine it was his lady friend he was heading toward. Before we knew it, there were 3 males and this one female and they headed toward the pond and walked right by us. About that time, someone spooked the giraffes and they started running right by us. It was a beautiful sight! They formed a long line and were just so neat. It is an incredible experience to be able to stand close enough to these animals and observe them and take in the beauty and majesty of them.
What a wonderful 45th anniversary it was for us.
Thursday, August 26, 2010
Having a ball!
Well, can't remember what my other post was but have to make it short and sweet but have oh so much I want to share. We made it fine but our luggage is still not here-it is Thursday,the 26th. So far we are managing and getting ready to buy some tshirts on OAT to make it easier. The last two days have been superb. We have seen so much wildlife. This lodge is incredible and has wildlife all around. It has giraffe, zebra, and waterbuck that run around and graze and it is awesome! Today we saw so much. We even saw about a dozen black rhino and white rhino. It is wonderful to see new things and especially the number. The pink flamingos are just awesome-thousands of them. Baboons make faces and are so funny-they are all over the roads and highways. I watched as about a dozen waterbuck slept and grazed outside our lodge room.
The birds are incredible too. I just can't say enough about how much we have seen and experienced in two days. If the rest of the trip is this good, all I can say is WOW. But I would like to get my suitcase. Let's face it, most of what you bring is in that and without suntan lotion, bug spray and other liquids that we packed, we are mooching off our friends. And a trip of 6 people is wonderful as well!
The birds are incredible too. I just can't say enough about how much we have seen and experienced in two days. If the rest of the trip is this good, all I can say is WOW. But I would like to get my suitcase. Let's face it, most of what you bring is in that and without suntan lotion, bug spray and other liquids that we packed, we are mooching off our friends. And a trip of 6 people is wonderful as well!
Tuesday, August 24, 2010
We are here but no luggage~
We may well find out how it is to really rough it as our duffel bags did not get here. Our travel friends out there who have traveled on British Air know why we don't like to fly them. The flights themselves were fine but no luggage. Hopefully we will eventually get it. Mainly we will do with what we have til then!
We are fine and I saw 3 storks on the roof top across from us before we went to breakfast this AM.
Good start. It is misty rain today. So much for the dry season! They knew the Burtons were coming!
We are fine and I saw 3 storks on the roof top across from us before we went to breakfast this AM.
Good start. It is misty rain today. So much for the dry season! They knew the Burtons were coming!
Thursday, August 19, 2010
OFF TO AFRICA
We are off on another African safari on Monday. We are taking the OAT Best of Kenya and Tanzania. There are supposed to be only 6 of us on this trip and we are really looking forward to it. Some of the lodges and tented camps have internet so we are hoping to be able to update at least from time to time!
Monday, July 5, 2010
Prague
I still love the city of Prague. It has such gorgeous architecture and scenic streets and buildings. Everywhere I look, there is something that is interesting. We had a nice city tour today and it brought back a lot of memories for me of my trip here with Janis. But that trip was in the winter and this time it is summer with lots of people and lots more souvenir places to browse. We started off up on Castle Hill and went in St Vitus cathedral and it has such gorgeous stained glass windows. My camera will not do these justice. We enjoyed just wandering around and taking it all in. Then Jim and I went outside and walked around the castle grounds and enjoyed all the views. We did not go into the castle but had plenty of time to see the changing of the guards and the area around the castle. From Castle Hill, we went down by bus and got out near the old town. We walked across the bridge and walked through the Jewish quarter. We saw the Jewish cemetary and moved on to the Old Town in time to see the Astronomical clock go off at noon. It was crowded in the old town square but was neat and we could see it well. The tour ended there and Jim, Marylou and I went off on the trek to see where Janis and I stayed on Wenceslas Square. We did a little shopping for all the ladies in our family and had a really good pizza for lunch. Ahhh how I love to eat in Europe where they make pizzas without the garlic and onion! We wandered around-found a nice market and browsed there and ended up at the Charles Bridge which was very crowded and by that time we were hot and tired. We are fairly certain that our surprise tour tomorrow will include that so we decided to head on back to the hotel. They gave us metro passes for our trip back and we found one without much problem. Jim and I got off at the big mall one stop before our hotel and got us some snacks. We got back on the metro and went on to our hotel and it felt very good to relax and take our shoes off! I have a lovely blister on my big toe that is not real happy with this much walking, but it is not slowing us down so far!
Bratislava and going from Budapest to Prague
We are at our last destination before we fly home on Wednesday. We spent a day traveling from Budapest to Prague and we stopped for a long lunch stop in Slavakia at Bratislava. It is a lovely town with a big castle that overlooks it. We enjoyed stretching our legs and walking around some after an included lunch. Because it was a holiday and a Sunday as well, we made it to Prague in record time. Our hotel is out of the town center but a metro station comes up literally beside the hotel so it is really not inconvenient at all. However, internet it not included so big bummer there. Hence why we waited til today to buy some time to update and check emails.
Bratislava castle
Bratislava
Bratislava
Saturday, July 3, 2010
more photos
the market from the pedestrian plaza
view from the funicular
view from the boat on the Danube
photos of Budapest
riding the cable car
walking across the chain bridge
cable car
Jim at old roman ruins near our hotel
Heroes Square
Free Day in Budapest
Jim and I opted out of the optional excursion to the Danube Bend. It was supposed to be by boat, but instead, they have changed it to be by bus. As you have gathered, bus is a nasty word to me on this trip. So instead, Jim and I took the hotel shuttle to the old town and then we walked down to the boat dock and took a sightseeing boat tour on the Danube. It was lovely and just enjoy to enjoy it. We did discover that they have some pretty aggressive mosquitoes here in Budapest too! After we left that, we took a tram ride back to the Chain Bridge and walked across the bridge which was neat. Then we took the funicular up to see St Mattias church and the Fisherman's Bastillion that we saw yesterday but we wanted to go inside the church. It was very pretty. We took the funicular back down the hill and took the tram back across to the Pest side of the river. We had been to the market yesterday so instead we walked along the pedestrian plaza and window shopped. There really is not anything that we really want here since we have already bought a couple of small things for our travel wall at home. We were hunting for a McDonalds as they have different colored Coke glasses here that are neat. Maybe they have them in the US too-we never go to McDonald's so we wouldn't know. But we thought they would be a neat souvenir for us from here and so did Marylou so we went there for lunch and got one for her and one for us. Then we took the metro back across the Danube and got on the commuter train and went up one stop and walked over to Margit Island. It is really a lovely park with huge trees and lots of peaceful spots to spread a blanket and have a picnic and enjoy being out in nature in the midst of a large city. It is about 2 miles from one end to the other so we walked and enjoyed the afternoon. We had to do some maneuvering to get the tram back to the hotel but we did it and were quite ready to come in to the air conditioning and rest. We went back to our little 100 yr old restaurant next door and are now suitably stuffed for the evening. We are packing up as we leave tomorrow for Prague. That is one of my favorite cities and if we survive the long bus ride, we will enjoy it, I am sure. I have secured me a seat on the front half the bus thanks to changing seats with a family from Bham that prefers to sit on the raised back seat so they have more leg room. Here's hoping it will be a good day.
Friday, July 2, 2010
Yum
Just back from a wonderful dinner at a small restaurant near our hotel. I ordered turkey with cheese sauce and Jim ordered a cottage cheese pasta dish which turned out to be awesome as well. We shared and came back stuffed for under $10 apiece. Think we will head back tomorrow night! Then we walked over to the nearest grocery store through the tunnels under the big artery highways in that direction and stumbled across Aquincum, the roman ruins from the 1st and 2nd century. So even though the grocery was already closed, it was a productive walk and we walked off at least a few of the calories that we had inhaled. Now to watch the next World Cup match.
Budapest and a better day
Yesterday had best be forgotten, from my point of view. We had the LONG bus ride through the mountains to get from Krakow to Budapest. The air conditioning on the bus broke and it was our turn to sit on the back. Heat and bumps and curves make one carsick Madge. Fortunately, today was much better. The air conditioning is fixed and while we still have to sit on the back-the other side-we were getting on and off the bus so I fared fine. And I have already talked to the couple from Bham that likes the bench seat on the back and I can swap with them in the front of the bus for the long day from Budapest to Prague. If I make that, I will be ok. The way the program director has us rotating seats, we will never get in the front half of the bus ourselves. According to our program director, the reason you get motion sickness is a vitamin B deficiency. hmmm never heard that one before and since I used to be car sick even as an infant, according to my mom ( I ruined all the Sunday afternoon drives) I don't see that being the cause but whatever.
The city tour was good and it is fun to see Budapest in the summer because when I came before, it was snowy and cold. The good thing about that is that there were no tourists but us. But it is not too bad and it is a beautiful city to see. We saw all the things we needed to see today and had a good time doing it. Tomorow Jim and I are not going on the all day optional tour (I am so glad-it is on the bus...)so we are going to go do some things that we want to do on our own timeframe. Budapest is a pretty city-lots of it is not new but it is so scenic and if you like paprika, there is a lot of it here:) I don't remember there being a charge for us to go through the Fisherman's bastillion when Janis and I came but there was today and we did not have much time either.
We are back at the hotel and watching the world cup game of Brazil and enjoying being cool and relaxing.
The city tour was good and it is fun to see Budapest in the summer because when I came before, it was snowy and cold. The good thing about that is that there were no tourists but us. But it is not too bad and it is a beautiful city to see. We saw all the things we needed to see today and had a good time doing it. Tomorow Jim and I are not going on the all day optional tour (I am so glad-it is on the bus...)so we are going to go do some things that we want to do on our own timeframe. Budapest is a pretty city-lots of it is not new but it is so scenic and if you like paprika, there is a lot of it here:) I don't remember there being a charge for us to go through the Fisherman's bastillion when Janis and I came but there was today and we did not have much time either.
We are back at the hotel and watching the world cup game of Brazil and enjoying being cool and relaxing.
Wednesday, June 30, 2010
Zakopane
Jim at one of the churches we visited. Everything was made of wood
Our carriage ride
Madge and Marylou at the market by one of the cheese stands where we bought our cheese
grilling Polish sausages
Photos from the Salt Mines and Zakopane
meal after the salt mine
Salt factory church 400 'deep
Schindler's Factory
going down the elevator in the salt mine-a thrill ride
Jim in the church
Zakopane
Today was a full day tour to the mountains of Poland. It was a lovely trip-the scenery reminded us somewhat of Norway or the Canadian Rockies with the tall trees and type of greenery. Zakopane is nestled in the valley of the mountains and has a large market with all sorts of items. One of the main local treats is cheese-smoked cheeses from all sorts of animals-goat, cow, etc.. They gave samples and it was quite good so we bought a few small pieces for our bus trip tomorrow. We got a small ice cream cone and sat on benches and people watched and enjoyed the time there. We stopped at some pretty churches on the way to the town where we had some free time. Then we headed up the road to a lovely little hunting retreat where we had dinner. The meal was excellent. My favorite thing was the fried smoked cheese that is a delicacy in this area. yum. It was really good. They had music and dancers while we ate. Afterwards, we had our first surprise of the evening-a horse drawn carriage ride out into the countryside. I think it was a national park if I read the sign right at one point. Jim got to sit with the driver and Marylou and I got the backseat. It really was a lovely afternoon to do it and it was peaceful and just a real treat. After about 45 minutes, he let us out at a small restaurant where the bus was waiting. But instead of getting on the bus, we were taken to the yard out back where they had built a big bonfire and had polish sausages for us to roast and eat. I didn't try any as I felt sure they had garlic in them, but it was fun to roast them. We all laughed about how they could do this right after a huge meal. But most managed to find the room to down them pretty well. After a nice visit there, we headed on back to Krakow. It was a really nice day and we were glad we got to go see this part of Poland as it is very different from the cities where we have stayed.
Tuesday, June 29, 2010
Salt Mines
We just got back from a really great tour of the salt mines in Wieliczka (Poland). They are awesome. The miners have carved all sorts of scenes and figures and other things in the mines and there is a huge cavern with the most beautiful scenes where they play music and can even hold worship services. We had heard it was beautiful and it surely lived up to our expectations. We had a meal afterwards and it was excellent as well. They have been wonderful to make sure I have not had any problem with the garlic and onion allergy. We had the best mushroom soup served in a carved out roll with a top and everything. On the way back from the mines, the bus driver (Martin) and our program director Yenreck detoured and took us by to see the factory from Schindler's list. We really were thrilled to get to see this. Tomorrow we have an all day touir to Zycopane in the mountains.
Photos of travel day and Krakow
Krakow
Madge dancing in Krakow
Black Madonna
Auschwitz
Birkenau
Jim dancing in Krakow
Krakow
Monday, June 28, 2010
On to Krakow
Today was a long travel day. We left the hotel in Warsaw at 7:30 and headed toward Krakow. We ran into an accident that shut down traffic on the highway and so we were late for our appointment with the nun guide at the monastery where the Black Madonna is located I can't spell the city. They were having a mass and they cover the Black Madonna at noon so we got there just in time to see it today. I think for some of our group who have Polish heritage, the mass and songs and other things brought back very poignant memories. Poland is very Catholic and over 90% go to church every Sunday so it is a huge part of their culture.
We headed on toward our next stop at Auschwitz but first stopped and got our box lunches so we could eat on the bus. Let me just say that I felt sorry for our program director again-the sandwiches were all VERY moldy-no one could eat them because of this. It was a weird assortment but most of us had enough to at least get through without eating the sandwich. I do think they better find a better place to get box lunches from! We had another two hour drive then on to Auschwitz. We had been to Dauchau and I thought I was prepared for this but I have to say this was just almost more than one can take in. The inhumanity to man and the terror and the stories are beyond description and so much of this camp is still there for people to see. We also toured Auschwitz 2 better known as Birkeanau which killed over a million people. There are just not words to describe it all.
By the time we left there, we were all pretty drained and exhausted. There was a lot of walking but also just the emotion of it. Our guide was great-he ended the tour by telling us his great grandfather was a prisoner there and that is why he does the job he does. We piled back on the bus and got to the hotel in Krakow late. We had an included dinner which was very good and then we had entertainment. The dancers and singers were dressed in traditional Polish costumes and were very good and a lot of fun. Today was Cassandra's 18th birthday so we all sang to her and enjoyed the program. Afterwards anyone who wanted to took a walk with Yendreck to the square. Our hotel is in the middle of the Old Town so walking will be easy for us. Jim is doing that now while I am updating this. Tomorrow we have a city tour and then we go to the Salt Mines for an optional tour and will get in late, so it will be a busy day. I will have to post photos tomorrow as I don't have time tonight to download them. It was an interesting day even if it was tiring.
We headed on toward our next stop at Auschwitz but first stopped and got our box lunches so we could eat on the bus. Let me just say that I felt sorry for our program director again-the sandwiches were all VERY moldy-no one could eat them because of this. It was a weird assortment but most of us had enough to at least get through without eating the sandwich. I do think they better find a better place to get box lunches from! We had another two hour drive then on to Auschwitz. We had been to Dauchau and I thought I was prepared for this but I have to say this was just almost more than one can take in. The inhumanity to man and the terror and the stories are beyond description and so much of this camp is still there for people to see. We also toured Auschwitz 2 better known as Birkeanau which killed over a million people. There are just not words to describe it all.
By the time we left there, we were all pretty drained and exhausted. There was a lot of walking but also just the emotion of it. Our guide was great-he ended the tour by telling us his great grandfather was a prisoner there and that is why he does the job he does. We piled back on the bus and got to the hotel in Krakow late. We had an included dinner which was very good and then we had entertainment. The dancers and singers were dressed in traditional Polish costumes and were very good and a lot of fun. Today was Cassandra's 18th birthday so we all sang to her and enjoyed the program. Afterwards anyone who wanted to took a walk with Yendreck to the square. Our hotel is in the middle of the Old Town so walking will be easy for us. Jim is doing that now while I am updating this. Tomorrow we have a city tour and then we go to the Salt Mines for an optional tour and will get in late, so it will be a busy day. I will have to post photos tomorrow as I don't have time tonight to download them. It was an interesting day even if it was tiring.
Sunday, June 27, 2010
Sunday in Warsaw
Today was a relaxing interesting day here in Warsaw. We started out with a lecture that was supposed to be given by a former Auschwitz survivor, but it turned out he was in the hospital so his son came instead. His father's life story was so interesting, shocking, sad, all of the above. It all really makes what happened during WWII that much more vivid. His father had medical experiments done on him and this son has CP as a result of it.
After the lecture, the bus took us to the royal park, which was not part of our tour but Yendrick arranged it all himself. He is beginning to loosen up and I have heard him laugh or make a joke a time or two so I am hopeful that he will be enjoying himself by the time the tour is over. He is trying so hard and as I said before, this is a rather unconventional group. But he has them under control for now anyway. The park is very pretty and the palace there reminded me of the chateux in the Loire Valley in France-set out on an island in a lake. We then drove to Old Town where we got out and enjoyed joining the many residents of Warsaw in their Sunday afternoon walks and enjoying time together out with their families. We went throught the Royal Palace since it was free today to go through it. It was beautiful and ornate and has a lot of gorgeous artwork. We went inside a couple of the churches in the area which also were pretty. We walked around the center of Old Town and went in some shops and then decided to come on back to the hotel with the ones who were going to the Chopin concert tonight. I had been to several concerts when I came to Prague and Budapest and Vienna with Janis several years ago plus we have done some on other trips and we decided to pass on this one. We went to the little market next door to our hotel and got some things for dinner and are relaxing, watching World Cup, and getting our things packed up to move on early in the AM. Another interesting thing on this trip has been the two hotels and the elevators. We've been places before where you have to put your key in to get the elevator to work, but not too many. Both the ones on this trip have been that way, and not just because we are on the executive floors. So we are having to remind ourselves not to put the key away too soon after we leave the room. There are a lot of Inner Circle members on this trip so we are all being treated really well. Those of us that went on the pre trip in Berlin, got rooms that were suites with kitchens and living rooms and balconies. Those that were there just for the one night before the regular trip started had regular rooms. I do think all of us that took the Berlin pretrip are glad we did.
Tomorrow we have a long travel day as we move on to Krakow. We go by bus and got our bus and driver today and we all are quite pleased. Yesterday the bus had broken seat backs and other problems so we were not looking forward to traveling a long bus ride on it. But the one we had today that we will have the rest of the trip was nice and nothing broken. So we are all happy campers. During the drive to Krakow, we will stop at Czestochowa at a 14th century monastery and also at Auschwitz where we will tour both camps. I think most of us are both looking forward to that and dreading that as it is certainly a horrible place and one we can hardly imagine.
After the lecture, the bus took us to the royal park, which was not part of our tour but Yendrick arranged it all himself. He is beginning to loosen up and I have heard him laugh or make a joke a time or two so I am hopeful that he will be enjoying himself by the time the tour is over. He is trying so hard and as I said before, this is a rather unconventional group. But he has them under control for now anyway. The park is very pretty and the palace there reminded me of the chateux in the Loire Valley in France-set out on an island in a lake. We then drove to Old Town where we got out and enjoyed joining the many residents of Warsaw in their Sunday afternoon walks and enjoying time together out with their families. We went throught the Royal Palace since it was free today to go through it. It was beautiful and ornate and has a lot of gorgeous artwork. We went inside a couple of the churches in the area which also were pretty. We walked around the center of Old Town and went in some shops and then decided to come on back to the hotel with the ones who were going to the Chopin concert tonight. I had been to several concerts when I came to Prague and Budapest and Vienna with Janis several years ago plus we have done some on other trips and we decided to pass on this one. We went to the little market next door to our hotel and got some things for dinner and are relaxing, watching World Cup, and getting our things packed up to move on early in the AM. Another interesting thing on this trip has been the two hotels and the elevators. We've been places before where you have to put your key in to get the elevator to work, but not too many. Both the ones on this trip have been that way, and not just because we are on the executive floors. So we are having to remind ourselves not to put the key away too soon after we leave the room. There are a lot of Inner Circle members on this trip so we are all being treated really well. Those of us that went on the pre trip in Berlin, got rooms that were suites with kitchens and living rooms and balconies. Those that were there just for the one night before the regular trip started had regular rooms. I do think all of us that took the Berlin pretrip are glad we did.
Tomorrow we have a long travel day as we move on to Krakow. We go by bus and got our bus and driver today and we all are quite pleased. Yesterday the bus had broken seat backs and other problems so we were not looking forward to traveling a long bus ride on it. But the one we had today that we will have the rest of the trip was nice and nothing broken. So we are all happy campers. During the drive to Krakow, we will stop at Czestochowa at a 14th century monastery and also at Auschwitz where we will tour both camps. I think most of us are both looking forward to that and dreading that as it is certainly a horrible place and one we can hardly imagine.
Saturday, June 26, 2010
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