
We got on the boats and just a short way down the waterway, we had to stop at a border crossing and get our passports stamped out of Botswana. No photos were allowed at this tent and the officials came in by boat just for us. We got back in the boats and proceeded to go through the canals and marsh for about 45 minutes until we got to our camp-Lianshulu camp #2. It was very different from our first camp. First of all, this time of year, it can only be reached by water. The lodge, like the first one, was open air and up on stilts so it could handle the water levels changing. Our tents were on level ground and came very close to the water's edge. When we first went in, I was a bit disappointed because we had had such a gorgeous view at Baobob and when we looked out our "window" (the backside of the tent that was almost all open mesh) we looked right at the marsh with its tall grasses and reeds. It was like looking at a corn field, only with water! There was a small waterway in front of the reeds and to the sides of the tent were a couple of trees. But basically, it looked like we were looking at nothing. The tent was nice and the bathroom part of the tent was actually constructed mostly of cement blocks or solid materials. The only complaint we actually had about the tent was the lack of lights at night. It was very dim and we soon found we were better off to chose our next day's clothing,etc during our mid day break so we could see what we were doing. The beds were surrounded by mosquito netting and actually, we had very little trouble with mosquitos on the whole trip but it was nice to have that protection. This was the only camp that did not provide electricity at night. The electricity was turned off at 10:30 and turned back on at 5AM so of course, the fan went off then too-the better to hear the night sounds though. However, this meant that Jim could not use his CPAP machine and even though the doctor had said it was fine for him to be without it for a few nights, he found he really did not wake up feeling rested. It surprised us how much he could feel it and for the next two days, he would come in the afternoon rest period and use the CPAP to sleep. He slept at night, just did not wake refreshed. But that was the only camp where he could not use it. Because of the electricity and the CPAP, we had to carefully time the camera recharging to get it all done, but we managed fine as they had two plugs.
Once we arrived at camp, we had lunch and took a nap and settled in. There are a lot of birds here so that was fun and the guides are all so knowledgeable about them and could tell us what every one is and helped us spot them. Later in the afternoon, Ntando talked to us about marriage in this region. Then we headed off for a late afternoon boat ride. The sunsets here are gorgous and with the terrain so different, being a wetland, we saw so many different things. We learned about waterlilies and how to make necklaces that they use at weddings. We saw animals come down to drink and enjoyed the many, many hippos that live in these waters. We had 5 of us plus the guides in each of the two boats and we would get very near to the hippos. They let us know when they did not like it! We had a dinner of ostrich and delicious homemade bread.
Again, we were escorted back to our cabins at night. Ntando saw a huge python next to the walkway on his way back to his tent after "tucking us in." His tent was next to ours so I walked with watchful eyes for the rest of the time in that camp! The first night here, Jim and I were in the bathroom brushing our teeth and getting ready for bed when all at once, there was a bellow that sounded like it was IN the tent. That is when we found out that we had two hippos that lived RIGHT behind our tent in that marsh and reed patch. At night you could not only hear them bellow but also hear them breathe and walk through the water and out of the water, beside the tent and into the common area of the camp to graze. It was both scary and awesome to be that close to such huge and powerful animals. We did have emergency horns we could blow if we ever felt threatened or unsafe, but once inside the tents, the animals just ignore the tents and whatever is in them. It is amazing. Again, we were never tempted to go outside the tent at night, however, one night we did open the door to see if he was grazing where we could see him.
We got up every morning at 5:30 so we could eat a light breakfast by 6 and get on our way by 6:30. At this camp, we have to ride by boat for 1 1/2 hours before we get to the main Lianshulu lodge where we do the game drives. So we enjoyed that time seeing the wildlife along the banks and always watching the hippos. The wildlife is not as plentiful at this camp as it was at Chobe. We did see some Greys zebras that are slightly different from the Burchells we saw at Chobe.
We saw the vervet monkeys at the lodge and a new type of antelope-the Sitatunga. Then we had lunch at the main lodge and headed back to our camp, another 1 1/2 hour in the boat. The water is like glass and the reflection and scenery was so peaceful and beautiful. On all the boatrides, we have coolers with Cokes or drinks on them and stop and just enjoy the scenery. On the second full day there, we were on our way back from the game drive at the lodge and about half way back to camp, a terrific thunderstorm came up. They have ponchos that are lined with blankets in the boats and we all donned one and hunkered down. The rains had started and the guide was driving as fast as he could to get us back. The boat is a metal boat so with the lightning crashing around us, it was a rather helpless feeling and as most of you know, I am really really afraid of lightning. So I was sitting there just trying to stay still and keep the cameras covered and dry (which was not easy even with the ponchos-the water was just pouring into my shoes and every which way). All at once, I was flying through the air (I was in the front seat) and hit the step and floor at the front of the boat! The driver had cut it too close to the reeds and the propeller got caught and stopped the boat instantly and threw me out of my chair! I was not hurt except for a nicely bruised knee, but I just lay there laughing so hard as it just seemed too funny to me. The driver picked the reeds out of the propeller and on we went. When it rains like that and your shoes and clothing get soaked, it is not easy for them to dry out in the humid climate! Our laundry (which we sent everyday to be done free by the camp staff) did not dry and now we had all these clothes soaked as well. That 26 lb limit began to take on new meaning about this time! The rain had come up quickly and had also come into our tent because the staff did not have time to come in and let the tarps down to cover the windows. We managed and they came in and helped us mop up and the sun came out the next day and we all survived.
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